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Editor'S Choice - 2020

World vermouth atlas: how, where and why

There he is, watching time pass with silent stoicism, making cameos in movies of James bond and in motorcycle racing. The vermouth (or vermouth, or vermouth) does not understand fashions, its characteristic flavor makes it a rare bug that heats the nocturnal and gilifuted tendencies of the trend setters. And it does well, because it gives the bars where it uses an halo of instagram and conservative exclusivity. This is a geographical route to know in which direction to travel when the gaznate gets tired "of the usual".

Turin

Why? Because it is his house, his crib and his lap. Here they flavored the wine with the spices that the Venetian merchants, becoming the XIX century in a whole business for the region. As happens in every relationship, there are ups and downs, heartbreak and generations that deny their influence. But it's there, willing to calm the rain and the hustle and bustle of the galleries. An indispensable service for the Turinese, that of vermouths They taste mogollón.

How? In Turin, a vermouth without a liturgy or adequate preparation. The more campechano, the more blissful and more north italian accent have the bartender, better. And of course, no faucets or white marks. It is up to decide between the media Martini, the entrenched Cinzano or the homemade concoction that all bareto with solera has in this city.

Where? Well, for example, in Martini's mother house, where to recognize to the extreme the differences between one Bianco and other Rosso while enjoying its interesting museum. And, of course, in the mythical coffees at the time of apperitive. 7 pm is already good time for everything.

Bell Bar, Book & Candle in New York © Bell, Book & Candle

The Veneto (and vicinity)

Why? Well, because he Spritz It deserves its own section, a tribute with shoehorn to a drink always forgotten. While it is not a pure vermouth, the taste of the Italians for this gasified and flavored wine He pushed the most famous brands to bet as another product of his offer. The Spritz It has won a place in northeastern Italy, becoming a regionalist element.

How? With some carelessness, in a any glass tumbler, in a any corner and above all, very cold so that bitterness does not shake too much.

Where? We are facing a square drink, that's why the best Spritz hour They live in the most emblematic corners of the cities. It should be punishable by law that in Santa Margherita Field from Venice in the Piazza Matteoti of Udine or in the Piazza delle Erbe of Vicenza something else that was not consumed Spritz on its terraces

Barcelona

Why? For two reasons. A first linked to the development of vermouth already consolidated as Yzaguirre in the surroundings of the city. A second more temporary, based on a fashion that in social networks peta and that is to resume the habit of going to the vermouth (and consume it, of course).

How? A dry stick or with some soda and with a certain predilection to tap charm above the bottle

Where? There is almost an established route that goes between lifelong taverns, those who neither have Twitter nor know they are TT because of some Uncontrolled hashtag. Strolling through Grace we must not stop at La filomena, Bodega Manolo or Can Miseria. At gothic quarter, Cala del Vermut maintains its essence of bar overflowing with tapas, siphon and tables clearly insufficient.

The New York Vermouth of Employees Only © Employees Only

New York

Why? Well, because he Manhattan club lent the name to the most wonderful use that has been given to vermouth in those lands: mix it with whiskey. An invention that, by the way, owes part of its fame to the mother of Winston churchill, which popularized it at a dinner in favor of the US presidential candidate Samuel J. Tilden.

How? In the Sunday suit, in a Pyrrhic cocktail glass and with enough parsimony to seem interesting without the liquid getting hot. And never, NEVER, with ice.

Where? The Manhattan It is a cocktail of tall standing with which you have to keep up appearances. It is neither a cup for a disco nor a relief for summer thirst. The best places to enjoy them mix the New York sophistication with the aftertaste 'old man'and sensorially complete a drink that rises to mystical experience. Posts to name a few are Employees Only, Summit Bar, Char No. 4 or Bell, Book & Candle. Difficult choice, success in the flirting-posturing insured.

Buenos Aires

Why? Do you need reasons to go, repeat and return with the withered forehead constantly to San Telmo? And, well, because the Italian immigration It also brought a taste for this drink.

How? Sitting at the table and, if third, accompanying a good dinner. In the Buenos Aires city no wonder the pairing of a good rib with a vermouth. God bless you!

Where? In wealthy bars, which show that They have managed to evolve from the rancid to the chic, but never forgetting the traditions, turning each ancientya into a deity. And, above all, in taverns that give names to drinks and that have personalized the vermouth until transforming it into a brand of its own. In the Galician bar you can enjoy the Piedmontese influence of the Cinzano mixed with the Spanish custom of the siphon. In Guebara the ritual is simple: enter, ask for a Guebara (Hesperidine, Triple Sec, Tonic and some orange slices) and get lost between meaningless conversations. And, of course, there will always be the mythical Doppelgänger, the last station before heaven where they only serve cocktails and that acts as a funnel where lovers of any of these drinks confine.

New York Summit Bar © Summit Bar

Madrid

Why? Because in the 21st century go to take the vermouth It is an expression that everyone still understands (and even using).

How? Forever Red, tap, to be enjoyed at noon or late afternoon. For Madrid, it is a anecdotal drink, between meals, although not less respected. It does not have a fixed audience and, increasingly, young rarunos find in it a cheaper and healthier alternative? to the bottle.

Where? Madrid is the city in the world with more bar than old per square meter and in most of them there is a tap for this liquid. But the palm may be taken by the Malasaña neighborhood because, in addition, is (was and will be) fashionable. Here there are from those that offer a classic enjoyment like the Taberna de la Ardosa (more advisable, in this case, that of Santa Engracia) or the 2 of Sagasta until those who have conquered the university students for their environment. The most trendy? As Gontzal Largo pointed out and here a server endorses it, the 'Yayo' (gin, vermouth and soda) of Casa Camacho.

- Barcelona: one of vermouth and tapas
- Madrid in the 'paleto de provincias' mode
- All articles by Javier Zori del Amo

Taberna Ardosa, a classic from Madrid © Taberna Ardosa

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