The definitive roadtrip through Andalusia with your friends
Traveling on the road looks like those self-help posters that say that "Happiness is not a goal, it is a path". And they are really right. The important thing is the trip itself, although there are also taking advantage of the pleasures that each destination brings you. Today we get in the car to visit a land full of beauty, flavor and, even if it sounds like a cliché, duende. And what are the stops? The pretty girls of the community: Cordova, Malaga Y Seville.
Road trips are to do with that kind of friends that you know you can take more than five hours in a small space. A priori it seems silly, but once you get going you will realize that this warning had its reason. But to feel like Thelma and Louise, it is not necessary to do Route 66 -at least still-. In Spain there are an infinite number of possible combinations to do while enjoying those small pleasures that it offers you a road trip -like, for example, taking pictures destrangis to the first one who falls asleep. And now that the heat begins to give truce is a great time to visit Andalusia. A trip to know the ins and outs of three essential cities such as Cordoba, Malaga and Seville.
Located on the meander of the Guadalquivir River and at the foot of Sierra Morena, is Córdoba, a city that is the same as its women: spontaneous, but of a beauty that "gives courage", as they would say. The “flower of Spain”, that's what Góngora called it, has nothing to envy to other Spanish cities. Like the James Bond Vesper martini, Córdoba is a cocktail of hectic, but not mixed cultures that allows you to travel through time without leaving the city. Here are the best tips for your first stop:
Perdeos in the courtyards of Córdoba © Alamy
There are certain things that are MUST -the use of capital letters is to emphasize- do whenever you visit Córdoba. No one can leave without seeing its great wonders as the Mosque-Cathedral, proof that both religions can live together and the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos, where gardens and water dance in your path. Other of his great classics are his funny and folkloric cordobes patios, full of light, as well as the Jewish quarter, a neighborhood made to get lost and forget the plane to discover its streets, facades, and balconies.
Lovers of that liquid gold from Cordoba, also called salmorejo, can't stop going to the Victoria Market (Paseo de la Victoria, s / n) to meet the temple of temples: The Salmoreteca A stand, which, as the name implies, is an authentic library of salmorejos. All different, curious, but very tasty. Salmorejo of avocado and plankton, of red fruits, of pate and foie, of mushrooms and fruits, of orange and cod… Although our favorite is undoubtedly that of beet with “vegetable ash” of Cured Cheese of D.O. Zuheros, nuts, capers and anchovies.
Time to eat
If you are one of those who love pecking because you always envy the dish that has been ordered in front, The jar (Paseo de la Ribera, 12) It is your site. Next to the Ribera de Córdoba is this charming restaurant that preserves the traditional Cordoba cuisine with a point of innovation and an excellent presentation. Mazamorra with tuna belly, fried eggplants with honey -According to the waiter they are also very good if you wet them with the salmorejo -, Braised squid with Iberian flakes Y seafood hummus They are a safe bet. Although if you want to know one of their star dishes, ask for some brave jars: cooked potatoes stuffed with green sauce, there i oli and salsa brava.
With nocturnality and joy
For those looking to have a drink or dance to live music with views of the Guadalquivir River and the Roman Bridge, Ribera Sojo (Paseo de la Ribera, corner of Cruz del Rastro) It is his bar. But if yours is authenticity and nostalgia, Long rock (Teniente Braulio Laportilla Street, 6) It is the cathedral of music lovers where to listen to the best rock and pop classics until the voice is left.
The travelers' mecca
Whether you go with friends, with a partner or there are only two famous hostels in Córdoba for their philosophy, design and great host: Jose Fabra. In the heart of the city is Cordoba Bed & Be (C / Cruz Conde, 22) Y Option Be (C / Leiva Aguilar, 1), the most recent hostel, as it was inaugurated last July. As soon as you enter, you know that the person behind both projects has traveled so much - or more than you - and that he knows what the globetrotters are looking for in an accommodation. A minimalist decoration, but with a style careful and full of details; corners more than photogenic to capture instantly; Guided bike tours of the city and themed dinners. Can you ask for anything else? The truth is yes, humanity and family spirit It breathes in the environment. José becomes that native friend that every nomad needs with whom to take a cane and ask what to see, where to eat and those secrets that only the country knows.
The best sunset
The Roman bridge of Cordoba, located on the Guadalquivir River as it passes through the city with the Calahorra Tower as a backdrop It is the best location to enjoy a sunset of those who take away speech. A romantic setting for those traveling couples, but with a geek point for inveterate serfs. Why? This same construction becomes the long bridge that joins Volantis through the Rhoyne, original city of Talisa Maegyr, wife of Robb Stark in Game of Thrones.
A sunset over the Roman bridge of Cordoba © Corbis
About 100 kilometers east of the Strait of Gibraltar, it is located Malaga, a city with a Mediterranean soul, but full of ambition. A destination where Roman archeology meets Arab and Christian architecture, where modern art finds its fate and the sea breeze snorts loudly. A city with the smell of orange blossom, where culture, nature and gastronomy are cooked over low heat to the delight of its visitors.
Thanks to the rich variety of the capital of Malaga, the traveler finds what he was looking for. Those who love history can visit the Roman theatre, his impressive Alcazaba or his Gibralfaro Castle; while adventurers are predestined to discover the interior of The Treasure Cave in Cala del Moral and dreamers can look at the horizon from the Balcony of Europe in Nerja. Although if you prefer a more hedonistic route in which to feed the soul, you can find the definitive guide to Malaga museums here.
Balcony of Europe © Alamy
The Pimpi (Granada Street, 62) It's like the first love, which is never forgotten. And for many it is more than that, it is their home. A winery where you can taste a good glass of wine next to barrels signed by characters like Antonio Gala, Paloma Picasso or Antonio Banderas and in turn discover the local cuisine with ingredients from the land. Malaga salad, ajoblanco with raisins and apple, fried marinade, lemon anchovies ... In this old mansion of the eighteenth century you can choose from more than seventy dishes, And no kidding!
Time to eat
The promenade of Pedregalejo beach is the pilgrimage area for those looking for sea, sun and the best fish in the area. A row of large boats stranded in the sand become improvised kitchens for the traditional technique of the spit: sardines skewered in thin and long rods, and then roasted in front of your noses. Our favorite? The wedges (Promenade el Pedregal, 94) It is a legendary restaurant for its rich variety of fish, from ancestral espetos to the horse mackerel, the rose or the backgams.
Eating in Pedregalejo implies one of espetos! © Nacho Sánchez
The wine cellar
The Old Guard House (Alameda Principal, 18) has been drinking the authentic Malaga sweet wine, vermouth and muscat to its visitors since 1840. A clear symbol of the city and the wines of its land in an authentic environment. For something it will be the “Winery with more tradition of Malaga”!
The Old Guard House © D.R.
The best sunset
In the city, without doubt the best location to watch a movie sunset is the Chinitas Lounge Terrace (Chinitas Passage, 3) of the hotel that receives the same name. Three meters above the sky - from Malaga - you can have a great drink while watching the sun go down. But if you are looking for a rural sunset, of those in which the skyline of the city does not appear anywhere, he points out: the Montes de Málaga, a chain of hills about five kilometers north of the city and parallel to the Mediterranean coast.
The best sunset © Terraza Chinitas Lounge
Neither Velázquez, nor Murillo, not even Becquer. There are two illustrious characters in history who knew how to describe the spirit of the Andalusian capital: “Seville has a special color, Seville still has its goblin. It still smells like orange blossom, I like being with its people. ” And is that Antonio Romero and Rafael Ruiz -Those from the river, for the unfamiliar - they hit the spot when they wanted to honor this city, didn't they?
The Real Alcazar of Seville, the Plaza de España, the mythical Giralda, the Torre del Oro, the Cathedral of Santa María de la Sede de Sevilla ... Seville is a city full of traditions, history and architectural poetry difficult to summarize in a few lines . Because as Arturo Pérez Reverte stated, "No one could invent a city like Seville."
Spain Square in Seville © Alamy
The best kept secret
Right next to the Giralda, there is a small square that sometimes goes unnoticed by tourists And therein lies its magic. Santa Marta Square It is an intimate hideaway, full of beauty to rest or read a book in maximum tranquility. His "barreduela", as the Andalusians say, begins in the Plaza de la Virgen de los Reyes, in the old town. Four small orange trees shelter a central cruiser that brings that mystical aspect, but at the same time familiar.
You can't leave Seville without walking through Santa Cruz, a typical Sevillian neighborhood full of narrow streets that seem to never end and white facades. But if you don't have time to get lost in your driveways, go to the Water Alley, whose name comes from the conduction of water that crossed the wall. Its stately homes, its balconies, Doña Elvira Square or the Murillo Gardens They are his greatest treasures. An alley so admired that even the tunos dedicated a song: "Among the Sevillian neighborhoods there is one of legend, because its streets are so lonely that it is a charm and in the summer the sun does not penetrate in any of them."
Time to eat
If there is something that can be done in Seville a lot and it is good to eat. Just walk the Tetuán street and Sierpes street, in the center of the city, and your appetite is already opened for its characteristic smell of marinade. Although another typical place of Seville could be your Triana Market (San Jorge Street, 6), located on the remains of St. George's Castle, seat of the former inquisitorial court. Convergence point of the most typical streets of the neighborhood -San Jacinto, Betis and Castilla-, its aroma of ham, cheese or fresh bread catches you instantly. The perfect place to enjoy a craft beer as is Taifa and make an impromptu tasting of the best products in the area.
Triana Market © D.R.
The best sunset
Walking along the banks of the Guadalquivir River is always a pleasure. There you can find the representation of all Sevillians: students, families, couples ... The fetish place for skaters And music lovers. In addition, in good weather it is the ideal place to prepare a picnic and wait for the sun to fall by popularly known as Triana bridge.
Seville and its color and its heat © Alamy